Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, has long been a dream destination for mountaineers. While many climbers attempt this daring feat once or twice in their lifetimes, Kami Rita Sherpa has repeatedly made it his mission to conquer Everest. Kami Rita Sherpa, a legendary mountaineer from Nepal, holds the world record for the most ascents of Mount Everest, solidifying his place in the history of high-altitude mountaineering.
Labeled the Everest Man, he holds the record for the most successful summits of Mount Everest, setting an unparalleled benchmark in high-altitude climbing. His extraordinary career is not just about breaking records but pushing human endurance beyond limits, inspiring generations, and solidifying Nepal’s reputation as the ultimate mountaineering destination. This blog explores his childhood, early climbing years, records, present achievements, and contributions to Nepalese mountaineering.
He also holds the record for the most ascents of mountains above 8000 meters, which counts to 43, including 8 ascents of Cho Oyu, 5 ascents of Manaslu, and one ascent each of Lhotse and K2. And, of course, 30 ascents of Mount Everest.
This legendary record was made on May 22nd, 2024, by summiting& Mount Everest for the 30th time. He broke his previous record of summitting Everest Peak 29 times.
Kami Rita Sherpa was born on 17 January 1970 in Thame, a small village in the Solukhumbu district of Nepal. His birthplace, nestled in the shadows of the Himalayas, is famous for producing some of the world’s greatest mountaineers like Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, one of the first persons to step on Everest in 1953. Coming from the Sherpa ethnic group, he was naturally inclined toward the mountains. Growing up in this high-altitude environment, Kami Rita was accustomed to extreme weather and rugged terrain. He grew up along with his father, who worked as a mountain guide, and his older brother was a climber. Inspired by their footsteps, influenced him that shaped his journey toward mountaineering and made his destiny in the mountains. He was highly inspired by his father. Though his father never climbed Mount Everest, Kami wanted to do it for his father.
Like most Sherpa children, he experienced a humble upbringing, assisting his family in daily chores and herding yaks. Kami Rita was deeply aware of the hardships that Sherpa climbers faced. Their invaluable role in mountaineering often went unrecognized, and financial stability was always uncertain. Despite these challenges, he embraced his cultural heritage and prepared himself for a career that would elevate both his life and the reputation of Nepalese climbers.
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Kami Rita’s career began as a Base Camp cook, as many Sherpa climbers initiate their careers. Later, he shifted to be a porter, transporting gear to the Everest base for mountaineering expeditions at the age of 12. Over time, he gained invaluable experience and transformed himself from supporting roles to leading climbs as a seasoned guide, proving his strength, stamina, and resilience at high altitudes.
In 1992, Kami’s older brother, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, who has his 17 records in Everest, got Kami Rita his first Everest job. Lakpa Rita Sherpa has his world record to become the first Nepali to complete the “Seven Summits, the seven highest mountains of all continents.
In 1994, Kami Rita Sherpa made his first summit of Mount Everest at the age of 24, carrying heavy loads across treacherous icefalls and enduring extreme weather conditions. This achievement marked the beginning of an extraordinary career that would rewrite mountaineering history. However, his strength, endurance, and passion for climbing soon propelled him to the role of a lead guide. Over the years, he became a sought-after guide, leading climbers from around the world to the summit of the world’s highest peak.
Kami Rita Sherpa’s name is now synonymous with Mount Everest. Hence, he grew up seeing Everest up close. Over the years, he has continuously pushed the limits of human endurance, setting and breaking records for the most ascents of the world’s highest peak. Kami Rita Sherpa's preparation for his 29th and 30th Everest expeditions was the culmination of decades of experience. His journey to become a seasoned climber involved years of physical conditioning, technical skill development, and mental fortitude.
Kami Rita Sherpa has climbed Mount Everest more times than anyone in history, continuously breaking his records. His years of dedication landed him with the title of "Everest Man".
| Year | Date / Height | Route |
|---|---|---|
| 1994 | 13 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 1995 | Up to 8500m | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 1997 | 25 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 1998 | 25 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 1999 | 13 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2000 | 23 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2002 | 25 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2003 | 30 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2004 | 24 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2005 | 30 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2006 | 20 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2007 | 22 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2008 | 24 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2009 | 5 May, 23 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2010 | 5 May, 24 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2012 | 18 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2013 | 10 May, 22 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2015 | - | - |
| 2016 | 20 May | N Col - NE Ridge |
| 2017 | 27 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2018 | 16 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2019 | 15 May, 21 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2021 | 7 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2022 | 7 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2023 | 17 May, 23 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
| 2024 | 12 May, 22 May | S Col - SE Ridge |
Beyond breaking records, Kami Rita Sherpa has played a vital role in Nepal’s mountaineering industry. As a senior climbing guide, he has led numerous expeditions, ensuring the safety and success of climbers from around the world. His knowledge of Everest’s routes, weather patterns, and climbing techniques makes him one of the most sought-after guides. His passion, dedication, and resilience over the mountain have served as an inspiration to climbers and outdoor enthusiasts globally
Kami Rita Sherpa and his dedication to Mount Everest has brought global attention to the Sherpa community, highlighting their vital role in high-altitude mountaineering. Without the Sherpas, many of the world’s highest summits would remain unconquered. His achievement highlights the Sherpa community's strength and expertise in high-altitude climbing. He has paved the way for future generations of Sherpa climbers and contributed to the advancement of mountaineering.
Currently, Kami Rita Sherpa is primarily associated with Seven Summit Treks, one of Nepal’s leading expedition companies. As a senior climbing guide, he has led numerous expeditions, ensuring the safety and success of climbers from across the globe.
Besides Seven Summit Treks, he has collaborated with international mountaineering organizations, providing expertise in high-altitude safety, climbing techniques, and sustainable mountaineering practices. His work extends beyond Everest, with successful summits of peaks such as K2, Lhotse, Manaslu, and Cho Oyu.
https://www.gatewaytreks.com/en/blog/three-passes-trek-the-ultimate-everest-adventure/
To prepare the climbers of the next generation, Kami Rita Sherpa is actively involved in training young Sherpa climbers. His mentorship focuses on:
He has been mentoring to ensure that Nepal’s legacy in mountaineering continues, with young climbers well-equipped to take on the world’s highest peaks.
Kami Rita Sherpa’s extraordinary accomplishments have earned him numerous accolades, including:
Kami Rita Sherpa is a Guinness World Record Holder for the most ascents of Mount Everest (30 times). He has also gained recognition from the Government of Nepal for his contributions to tourism and mountaineering. Various adventure and climbing organizations have awarded him with the International Mountaineering Awards. He has been appreciated with the Everest Medal of Honor, a prestigious award recognizing his unmatched dedication to climbing.
Kami Rita Sherpa’s role in Nepalese mountaineering extends beyond personal records. He has been actively promoting Nepal as a Mountaineering Hub. He emphasizes safe climbing practices and sustainable mountaineering to protect the fragile Himalayan ecosystem. He has been raising awareness about the risks faced by Sherpas and advocating for their better working conditions. Through his leadership, expeditions have become more organized, with better-prepared climbers improving the safety of the climbers. He has called for better wages, improved working conditions, and greater recognition for the essential role Sherpas play in the climbing industry. Additionally, he has spoken about the environmental impact of mountaineering, encouraging sustainable tourism and responsible climbing practices to preserve Everest for future generations.
Mountaineering is not just about breaking records; it involves extreme risks. Kami Rita has faced numerous life-threatening situations. During the devastating avalanches of 2014 and 2015, many climbers lost their lives on Everest. Unpredictable weather and Blizzards have often forced him to turn back just meters from the summit.
In the high mountains, Altitude Sickness is a common problem. Highly experienced climbers like Kami Rita Sherpa can get altitude sickness over time. The zone above 8000 m is called a death zone, and many climbers have lost their lives there. The Rainbow Valley in Everest is a place which is filled with such bodies of the climbers who lost their lives in Everest.
Despite their vital role in expeditions, many Sherpas fear financial Insecurity with financial instability and limited recognition compared to foreign climbers. Kami stated that when Ang Rita Sherpa, the legendary climber who climbed Mount Everest ten times without supplemental oxygen between 1983 and 1996, had a brain hemorrhage and was hospitalized in Kathmandu in 2017, the government did not provide any support.
Kami Rita Sherpa is more than just a record holder; he is a symbol of endurance, dedication, and excellence in the world of mountaineering. His contribution to Nepalese tourism, mountaineering, and the Sherpa community is immeasurable. His journey, from a small Himalayan village to global fame, is an inspiration to aspiring climbers worldwide.
He has shown the world that true greatness is not just about personal achievements but about lifting others along the way. Through his record-breaking climbs, training programs, and advocacy for Sherpa's welfare, he has ensured that his impact will be felt for generations.
In his guide book, How to Climb Everest, Kami Rita Sherpa has given his secret to success. He describes that he is focused on climbing rather than suffering from homesickness and missing family. He says to push the distractions aside and “make the mountain your home instead”.
Born on January 17, 1970, Kami Rita Sherpa is currently 55 years old in 2025.
Yes, Kami Rita Sherpa is still alive and actively involved in mountaineering.
Climbing Everest requires years of training, high-altitude experience, and proper acclimatization. Aspiring climbers should undergo extensive physical and technical training, obtain proper gear, and be prepared for extreme weather conditions.
While specific figures regarding Kami Rita Sherpa's net worth are not publicly disclosed, his income primarily derives from his work as a senior climbing guide and associated endeavors.
Kami Rita Sherpa is from Nepal, the country that is home to Mount Everest.
Yes, several documentaries and interviews have covered Kami Rita Sherpa’s record-breaking climbs, his life, and the challenges faced by Sherpas in mountaineering.
As of May 22, 2024, Kami Rita Sherpa has summited Mount Everest 30 times, setting a Guinness world record.
Climbing Mount Everest involves extensive preparation, including physical training, acquiring technical mountaineering skills, acclimatization to high altitudes, and securing necessary permits. Engaging experienced guides like Kami Rita Sherpa can significantly enhance safety and success rates.
Kami Rita Sherpa is a renowned Nepali mountaineer celebrated for holding the record for the most ascents of Mount Everest, with 30 successful summits in 2024.
Both Kami Rita Sherpa and Lhakpa Sherpa are prominent figures in mountaineering. While Kami Rita holds the record for the most Everest ascents by a male climber, Lhakpa Sherpa holds the record for the most ascents by a female climber.
Kami Rita Sherpa holds the world record for the most ascents of Mount Everest, with 30 successful summits as of May 22, 2024.
Specific details about Kami Rita Sherpa's salary are not publicly disclosed. However, experienced Sherpa guides typically earn between $5,000 to $10,000 per Everest expedition season, depending on various factors.
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